LEGO Brick Dimensions and Measurements

The LEGO bricks are precisely designed to fit perfectly together. There is a 0.2mm gap between bricks next to each other. The gap between two bricks stacked on top of each depends on how careful to pressed them down. Of course there are several websites that show you the exact measurements, but some of them were a bit confusing or even broken.

LEGO 2×4 Brick (3001)

I enjoy working in 3D so I used Fusion 360 to create this technical drawing of the LEGO Brick. You can download the model over at GrabCAD and the PDF file from here.


LEGO 2×4 Plate (3020)

This plate is 1/3 of the height of a normal brick. You can download the model at GrabCAD and the the PDF file from here.


LEGO 1×4 Technic Brick (3701)

The technic bricks have a hole in the side for pin connectors or axles to go through. I had to cut open a brick to get the exact design of the inside tubes right. The model is available at GrabCAD and the PDF file from here.


19 thoughts on “LEGO Brick Dimensions and Measurements”

  1. Hi. By inspecting the Plate vs the Brick, it looks like the walls are thicker. Is it possible, that the 0.6×0.2 elevations create the same thickness, so the walls at the plates are 1.4mm?

  2. The walls of the technic brick are certainly thicker (1.4mm). I confirmed this by measuring them myself. The walls of the 2×4 brick and 2×4 plate seem to be identical: 1.2mm. I am not sure what you mean with the 0..6×0.2 elevation.

  3. Please do more parts like this. I enjoy using inventor and making my own creations. A bit difficult measuring it myself. What you have done so far is very helpful. Thanks

  4. Thank you for these lego parts they really helped me with my school work. Can you please make more it would really be appreciated. Thank you very much .

  5. Everybody says that the hight is 0.96 cm. But it’s not. I stacked 200 bricks and measured the hight and got 191.2 cm (if you multiply 0.96 by 200 you get 192 cm). So the hight is more like 0.956 cm.

    You might say that’s just 0.04 mm difference. But when you stack 200 bricks that difference sums up to almost a centimeter (0.8 cm)

  6. In reference to the wall thickness question – It varies! The variation is quite simple, and not related to regular vs Technic bricks. As far as I can tell, plates and 1xn bricks have a wall thickness of 1.5 mm, as in your Technic brick drawing (not quite the 1.6 advertised in other forums). For mxn bricks (where m>1 and n > 1) the wall thickness is 1.2 mm (as you have shown), and the missing space is made up by the little nubs, which you show.

  7. A note on the horizontal dimensions. I was bothered by the 15.8*31.8 rather than 16*32, so I decided to do some tests. I believe there is definitely a allowance for play, as implied in these drawings. None of my bricks are exactly integer width and length. I measured 24 different bricks and plates. I believe the linear dimensions for width and height are exactly 8.00 mm * number of studs – 0.2 mm. When I apply this formula across my 48 measurements (24*2) I get a standard distribution of 0.016 mm. It cleanly explains 15.8 and 31.8 as well as the fact that the corner stud center is 3.9 mm and not an even 4.0 which you would expect given stud separations of 8.0

  8. Thank you! This helped a lot. I just have one question. Are the measurement in mm?

  9. Extraordinarily helpful. Thank you so much for your time and effort!

  10. Thank you Christoph for your work. :-) I work in a company that needs small cups [1] for electronic components and uses the same presses of the Arburg company [2] for production as Lego. I train apprentices for electrical engineering there. Therefore, I know that the pressing tools are slightly conical in shape so that the workpieces release well from them. Also, slightly conical shapes are good when it comes to clamping mechanically. Similar to a funnel, the studs are then inserted at progressively closer spacings. Or the studs become thicker. So here’s the question: have you checked to see if the studs or other parts are the same thickness everywhere?

    I myself do not own any Lego bricks since my childhood. However, I am thinking of using them to build 3D-mathematic-geometric models for lessons, for which I would have to glue neodymium magnets into the bricks.

    [1] examples:

  11. Hi, there is a small but important and extremely useful deviation of the Lego bricks from your drawing. I would never have noticed it if I hadn’t compared a Lego 2×4 brick with a competing product. The latter comes from Mattel, an American company with decades of injection molding experience. Accordingly, the bricks are of good quality. The deviations and shades of colors as well as unevenness and gaps between the bricks, which all is known from many competing products, are just as absent here as they are with Lego. One disadvantage is that they are more difficult to put together. If you’re used to Lego, it feels like they resist threading.

    On the other hand, the clamping force of the Mattel (M) bricks to each other is stronger than that of Lego (L). I like this, but it is rather less suitable for toddlers when they want to separate them. If I put a M brick from the top onto a L brick, the clamping force is strong, as with M. If I put the M brick from the bottom into the L brick, the clamping force is weaker, as with L. One reason is the thicker outer wall with M (1.5mm) than with L (1.2mm). Instead of the thicker outer wall, L has 0.3mm thick ribs/nubs that press against the studs. But unlike in your drawing, these do not start at the bottom of the brick, but about 0.2mm above it.

    According to the drawing, the center of the studs is 3.9mm from the outer wall. If you subtract its thickness of 1.2mm, you are left with a distance of 2.7mm from the inner wall. However, the radius of a stud is only 4.8/2= 2.4mm. It therefore does not reach the inner wall, so that no clamping takes place there. As a result, the studs of the lower brick “fall” 0.2mm deep without pressure into the opening of the upper brick up to the beginning ribs. If you press further, the studs will be clamped by the ribs. Threading into an L-brick is therefore much easier than into M-brick. Without the ribs nothing would remain stuck in the L-brick.

    In summary, these 0.2 mm shorter ribs than the Lego bricks’ height act like a funnel and make a crucial difference in assembly, especially with toddlers’ hands that are not yet so skilled. I would not have believed the big impact of this tiny cause if my young testers and I had not experienced the difference with the Mattel brick.

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